Remembering Africa September 2012

Remembering AFRICA

Namibia:

We arrived like thirsty elephants at a waterhole far from our usual water holes and not knowing exactly whether we would find water to quench our thirst.  Namibia was an unknown water hole for us.  We had never heard of Windhoek, Damaraland, Swakopmund, or Sossusvlei.  We had heard of Etosha and The Skeleton Coast but could not have told you anything meaningful about them.  Now, after driving 2770 kilometers almost all of them on dirt roads, we have images of the expansive landscape, animals and people etched in our minds.  The image of coming upon donkey carts in remote areas with farmers and families rolling along at the speed of a tired donkey sharpens the contrast with our shiny Jeep Sahara 4X4.  The farmers look at you with curiosity but when you wave to them they break out in big smiles and shoot their arms up in greeting.  Self-driving made us feel like we were on a journey of discovery.  We were doing the acting and interpreting.  We were free to get lost and enjoy the adrenaline of an uncertain outcome.  Self-determination heightens your senses.  Although we traveled from lodge to lodge you could decide to camp throughout Namibia as a low cost alternative for as little as $100 per night.  Camping gear can be provided by certain companies in Windhoek which includes tents, sleeping bags, cooking utensils and other necessities.

What a blast

So fun

Map of Namibia and where we drove.  About 2800 kilometers and only 400 of them were paved roads.

Botswana:

The camps inside the Okavango Delta are reachable only by small aircraft.  There are two very good safari operators who can plan and book the logistics of the small aircraft (Cessna Caravan) and the premier tented camps.  We chose Wilderness Safaris and we were happy with our choices but we missed the freedom and independence of the self-drive safari though Namibia.  We marveled at the animals in the Delta.  We watched wild dogs hunt and we watched a herd of elephants chase away 9 adult lions.  Then we watched as that same herd of elephants nervously crossed a river with the baby elephants swimming as those same lions watched from the bank anxiously waiting for a show of weakness from a baby elephant and an opportunity to attack.  None of the baby elephants lagged behind.  The walking safari added an element of self-reliance and we learned about the dangers and probabilities of attacks and the importance of recognizing danger, sometime signaled by nearby animals.  A guide carrying a 458-caliber rifle accompanied us.  He was trained to load and take three shots within 11 seconds.  This is the firepower required to take down a charging lion.

Map of the Okavango Delta and where we went

So much fun!