Showing posts with label Safari Adventures. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Safari Adventures. Show all posts

September 25, 2012

Remembering Africa September 2012


Remembering AFRICA

Namibia:

We arrived like thirsty elephants at a waterhole far from our usual water holes and not knowing exactly whether we would find water to quench our thirst.  Namibia was an unknown water hole for us.  We had never heard of Windhoek, Damaraland, Swakopmund, or Sossusvlei.  We had heard of Etosha and The Skeleton Coast but could not have told you anything meaningful about them.  Now, after driving 2770 kilometers almost all of them on dirt roads, we have images of the expansive landscape, animals and people etched in our minds.  The image of coming upon donkey carts in remote areas with farmers and families rolling along at the speed of a tired donkey sharpens the contrast with our shiny Jeep Sahara 4X4.  The farmers look at you with curiosity but when you wave to them they break out in big smiles and shoot their arms up in greeting.  Self-driving made us feel like we were on a journey of discovery.  We were doing the acting and interpreting.  We were free to get lost and enjoy the adrenaline of an uncertain outcome.  Self-determination heightens your senses.  Although we traveled from lodge to lodge you could decide to camp throughout Namibia as a low cost alternative for as little as $100 per night.  Camping gear can be provided by certain companies in Windhoek which includes tents, sleeping bags, cooking utensils and other necessities.

What a blast

So fun

Map of Namibia and where we drove.  About 2800 kilometers and only 400 of them were paved roads.


Botswana:

The camps inside the Okavango Delta are reachable only by small aircraft.  There are two very good safari operators who can plan and book the logistics of the small aircraft (Cessna Caravan) and the premier tented camps.  We chose Wilderness Safaris and we were happy with our choices but we missed the freedom and independence of the self-drive safari though Namibia.  We marveled at the animals in the Delta.  We watched wild dogs hunt and we watched a herd of elephants chase away 9 adult lions.  Then we watched as that same herd of elephants nervously crossed a river with the baby elephants swimming as those same lions watched from the bank anxiously waiting for a show of weakness from a baby elephant and an opportunity to attack.  None of the baby elephants lagged behind.  The walking safari added an element of self-reliance and we learned about the dangers and probabilities of attacks and the importance of recognizing danger, sometime signaled by nearby animals.  A guide carrying a 458-caliber rifle accompanied us.  He was trained to load and take three shots within 11 seconds.  This is the firepower required to take down a charging lion.

Map of the Okavango Delta and where we went


So much fun!

Savuti Lodge-Okavango Delta, Botswana

Our last stop in Botswana is the Savuti Lodge. After the bumpy ride to the gravel airstrip, the bumpy ride in the 12 seater plane again, and another bumpy ride from the airstrip to the lodge (which is all part of the experience)
we arrived at thatched roof huts (7 of them) that are located on the river at the north end of the Linyanti Region.
The Okavango Delta

Landing on the dirt runways--The guides in the land rovers have to stand by to make sure they run off any animals that get in the way

Landing at Savuti


Everything is very dry this time of year, except right around the river. Our hut, once again, is like something out of a Hemingway novel. Mosquito netting around the bed, a wood floor set above the water on stilts, with running water in copper sinks and a shower in the open on teak wood. We have a lovely deck overlooking the river where elephants and other animals come to drink and cool themselves off.
Luxury bed with mosquito netting

This monkey greeted us by stealing our welcome plate of cookies

Main lodge area with a small pool

A total of 7 huts.  Ours is on the end.

Home

The Lodge

To cool ourselves off, we decided on a boat ride down the river instead of a game drive. With very calming flat water, reeds on both sides, we meandered (with a motor) to view open billed storks, cape buffalo, zebra, hippopotami (that didn't want our boat to come too close) and lots of elephants. Turning off the motor and floating in the reeds we had our sundowner toast and watched the elephants drink and play. There were small bell frogs that sang to us as soon as it got dark. (they sing pretty much all night long).
Zebra

Warthog

Baboon

Buffalo

Mamas and Babies

This is my territory!

Open billed Stork

Waterbuck

Enjoying the elephant show

Barb on the boat

What a romantic date!
Sunset

Back at camp

Not wanting to be predictable and go out in the land rover on another game drive, we asked for a guide that could take us on a walking safari. Our guide was O.D. and had been trained to use a 458 caliber rifle that he could load and get off 3 shots within 11 seconds. A charging lion or elephant would be taken down with shots to the head. (of course only if needed).
O.D. with his 458

Barb and O.D. out on a walking safari
Scott on our Walking Safari

Out walking, we learned some animal behaviors, identified tracks, and enjoyed walking.  You cannot do much exercise in Africa because you have to stay in your vehicle or in your camp.

Bullet for 458

Scott checking out some tracks

Termite mound.  The large cats like to sit on top of these to get a better view of what may be their prey.  The hole is made by an Aardvark and when he abandons it, warthogs and other animals take it over as their home.

A parade of elephants were in our view, and wart hogs as well as various birds. O. D. pointed out the many prints of different animals that almost forms a cast in the soft sand.

Watching the elephant herd, making sure we are down wind so they won't smell us

Large herd you probably don't want to mix with

Elephant dung.  A lot can be learned from examining what he has eaten.

Leopard print

Elephant footprint


......

Lunch on the veranda while watching elephants walk next to your hut and into the river is pleasing....

From our own deck

What to watch while having lunch


Large herds of elephants are abundant in this area. While watching the behavior of a herd of elephants, nine lions with one young cub appeared in the tall grass and tried to get a little too close to the baby elephants. Mama elephants that were already beginning to cross the river came barreling back into the herd, surrounding the small elephants, and had a stand off with the lions. Ears flapping, trumpeting their warnings, and charging, caused the lions to retreat.  A safe distance away the lions sat back down and waited for an opportunity to attack. The elephants delayed their crossing and seemed to be nervous about the lions.  Eventually they moved into the water and swam with the babies closely tucked inside the herd.  (yes, elephants swim well), and they all made it safely to the other bank.
The lions waited a little while and then at dusk, the lions swam across the river. (yes, lions swim also).  We don't know what happened on the other side of the river, but we hope the babies are safe.
The herd always protects the young babies

Having a little tussle

This elephant made a mock charge at our land rover.  He didn't want us too close.




Barb is getting a little nervous as this lion is looking at her and walking directly toward her.

In the rover- the lions are lying in the grass with the elephants not too far away

These lions are thinking about trying to get a baby elephant while the mom's aren't looking.


Watching from the land rover
Swimming to the other side of the river

The lions are keeping a close watch
A baby lion cub

Deciding to go on a night drive found us looking at bush babies, a spotted Genet, a Civet, and a couple of hippo youngsters sparring in the water and later coming out and walking and grazing.  It was too dark to get good photos, but we enjoyed watching.


Hornbill

Tree lizard

Spotted Genet seen with infrared light

This is a map of the Okavango Delta and the areas that we stayed.
Little Vumbura and Savuti Camps

Africa is an amazing place.  We have had a great time.  On our flight to Nairobi (which was our stop-over on the way to India) we snapped a photo of Kilimanjaro......We climbed it with Brittany, Jason, and Caitlin, and reminisced what a great time we had.
We are off the India!
Kilimanjaro seen from the plane