November 4, 2012

Ayers Rock (Uluru) and Kata Tjuta (Olgas) Oct. 30-31, 2012



Ayers Rock

A 2.5 hour flight takes us from Cairns on the north east coast to Ayers Rock in the middle of Australia. It is considered the Outback.   It is 38 C (96 F) when we land at about 10 am.

The desert lands from the air
Ayers rock from the air
Kata Tjuta from the air

Landing strip at the airport 
 Ayers Rock is now known by its native name “Uluru”.  The Australian government gave the land back to the Aborigines in the 1980s and now leases it back from them. 


Ayers Rock
We were reading our travel books on Scott's Kindle during the flight and decided that to avoid bus tours we should rent our own car.  At the airport Scott checked all four rental companies and they were sold out so he went back to Avis and told them to hold a car for us when they received returns.  In the meantime they had a RAV 4 that had just come back but was not clean.  We told them we would take it.   The agent was real nice and reduced the price by 2/3 and we were soon loaded and off in our dusty Toyota RAV 4.

Our dusty RAV 4
All lodging at Uluru is owned by one company.  We are staying at Sails in the Desert Hotel.  It is not the most expensive, but it is still expensive.  Everything is overpriced which is what happens when one company has a monopoly.
Lobby of the Sails Hotel
Exterior and pool area
 We filled our pack with water and sun screen and we made a beeline for the Uluru Rock State Park.  At the entrance we ask if the Rock is open for climbing.  The attendant told us it would be closed all day because of high temperatures.  She tells us that it is rarely open because it closes for high temperatures or high winds or expected high temperatures or winds.  The Aborigine people now have a voice in the administration of the Uluru Rock and surrounding areas.  They have lobbied to ban climbing on the Rock because they believe it is sacred.  The Australian government recently took the matter to a vote and voted to keep the Rock open to climbing.  The end result is that climbing is open but last year there were only 55 days that it was open and any excuse is used to close it.  The Aborigines can close the climb for any reason including spiritual reasons or special celebration days or ancestor anniversary days.

The red rock reminds us of Southern Utah
Oh well, it is only a one hour hike to the top and we feel better respecting the Aborigine’s wishes that we not climb.  (We would have climbed had it been open anytime during our stay.)  In these photos you can see the chain and stays bolted to the rock on the steep ascent up the southeast face of the Rock.  Once you are on the ridge it is an easy traverse to the high point.

Scott checking out the climb.  He is pointing to the chains where the climb begins.
Route up the rock
Chains close up
Once you are at the top of the chains, it is a traverse across the top
If you climb without permission there is a big fee.
Penalty is $5,500.00 Australian dollars
We visited the Aborigine Culture Center and learned about their customs and way of life. There is an explanation of “sensitive sites” where the Aborigines believe that the rock details and features are the equivalent to sacred scripture.  They ask that you not take photos in these areas, which are sometimes big sections of the Rock, because these areas describe culturally important information and must be viewed in the original location and not in a photograph.  They believe it is inappropriate for these images to be viewed elsewhere.  

Inside the Cultural center.  The Aborigine people do paintings with a lot of dots.  Their painting tell stories of dreams.
 The Aborigines learn to eat grub worms and seeds and to suck water from the leaves.  They have a tradition of dot painting.  We bought a small dot painting from an Aborigine woman.
 Aborigine women

We walked around large sections of the base of the Rock. 
Exploring the rock
Scott

Amazing formations up close


Walking to the water hole


Iphone self portrait

There are petroglyphs in caves and near water holes at the base of the rock.


Petroglyphs in a cave area
Petroglyphs
They tell a story
 There are beautiful views of the red rock formations. 

Desert Varnish

The red sandstone seems rougher than the sandstone we have near Moab.  Does this look like Porky Pig?
Close up of rock
Scott walking around


Imagine the water coming off this ridge in a rainstorm.




Interesting formations
Amazing rock

The blue sky against the red rock was beautiful

Ridges caused by water
Cave formations
Scott thinks this looks like a skull........and it is the day before Halloween!

Sunshine on red rock




Looks like a teapot arm
We walked a section called the Mala Walk. 

Scott starting the Mala walk

There are lots of small caves or overhanging rock areas on the Mala walk



Barb checking out the beautiful canyon



Does it make you want to grab your rope and harness?  Sorry, that would be off limits.


Self portrait time




Time for a rest


Having a little snack



It had a cave where the women would teach the children and young girls how to cook food.  

There were worn indentions in the rock floor where the women would grind food and cook
 There was a cave where the men would teach the young men how to hunt.


There was a cave for OLD PEOPLE.  Notice the smoke on the ceiling where they would spend long hours celebrating old rituals by the fire. (B.S.).  But there was, in fact, a cave for old people.  We have been in the heat too long and we are starting to hallucinate and make up our own explanations and they seem to be just as good as the ones on the informational plaques at each cave or waterhole.  (WE ARE NOT OLD PEOPLE)

Really?
Old People cave


Old people must rest, but we are not old.  We are just waiting for the right moment to continue
At sunset we went over to the southeast side of the rock and stopped our car on the side of the highway and took pictures and toasted our water bottles to the beauty of the moment.  The Rock was glowing red in the sunset.

Driving the RAV 4

Uluru at sunset.  Which glows brighter at sunset, Uluru Rock or Barb's shirt?
Sunset Photo
The sunset turns it deep red
This was the actual sunset shining toward Uluru Rock
Last of the sunset

Beautiful


We went back to the hotel and ate at the buffet.  The Kangaroo kabobs were great.  Kangaroo meat is very tasty and lean meat.

The next morning we planned to climb the Rock if it is open. 
Sunrise

The Park Ranger tells us it is closed because it will be too hot.  It is 5:30 in the morning and it is not hot and the wind is not blowing and there are no clouds in the sky BUT the Rock is closed.  We anticipated this answer so we had a Plan B.

Plan B is to hike the Valley of the Winds full circuit walk of 7.4 kilometers.  This walk is through a beautiful red rock area called Kata Tjuta.  We drove about 45 minutes from the park entrance to the beginning of the hike.  It was nice and cool when we started the hike.

Kata Tjuta in the early morning

Beautiful lighting


Map of Kata Tjuta area.  We are going to hike the Valley of the Winds loop


Scott starting our hike

Barb in the first light

It was still cool enough in the morning hours but the flies were horrendous


Self portrait

We bought some natural fly cream.  It actually worked.  The flies stayed off of our faces, but they still hung around Barb's hat.



We hiked over rocks through a canyon to start

Beautiful canyons


Beautiful Colors


Stay hydrated





A little hiking, a little music, a little exercise.......It'a all good.


Time for a snack of cookies

Amazing scenery

Scott






As we drive around after a day of hiking and hanging out at the pool for a while,  it looks as though a storm is brewing, but the clouds are low and dark.   The closer it comes we realize it is a sand storm coming along the ground.  It looks like a haboob that we have seen in Phoenix.

Sandstorm coming towards us

Kangaroo Island by way of a stopover in Adelaide is the next destination tomorrow.














































































































































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