Varanasi, India September 23-35, 2012

Varanasi is the spiritual center of India.  It is known for its Shiva Temples.  (There are over 100,000 Shiva Temples in Varanasi.)  It is the place that all Hindus want to die and be creamated.  Hindus believe that half of their sins will be forgiven if they just walk in Varanasi.  All of their sins will be forgiven if they bathe in the Ganges River.   If they are cremated at the banks of the Ganges then Hindus believe that the cycle of death and rebirth will be broken and they will be at peace.  This is called Moksha.   Varanasi is important to Buddhists since it is the place of the first sermon of the Bhudda.  Varanasi is also a heritage area for the Muslims since the area was conquered by Muslims in earlier times. 

We are staying at the Nadesar Palace Taj Hotel that has 6 rooms.  When we arrive we are treated to a one horse carriage ride (the carriage is from England from the 1800's) around the 40 acre Palace grounds.  Scott gets to drive the carriage.  The rooms are suites named for the guests that have stayed in each particular room.  We are shown to the Queen Elizabeth Room.

Gate into Nadesar palace

The carriage is from the 1800's from England

Complete with umbrella for shade

Our Driver

Scott drove the carriage.  They told us that they feed the horse onions every morning to calm him and he also gives him an hour massage.

Bedroom

Bathroom

Living area

A sitting room

Pool

Pool and Grounds

 What we know of Varanasi we have learned from our guide, Dr. Salesh Tripathi, who has also guided President Clinton and various others.  We don’t know how we were lucky enough to get him as our guide for our few days in Varanasi but he is very good.  He is from the Brahman class and studied to be a Priest.  He changed careers and received his doctorate in archeology.  He is also a counselor and astrologer which allows him to facilitate arranged marriages since those matches are very often dependant upon astrology compatibility. (He also was the priest that married Heidi Klum and Seal).   Dr. Tripathi tells us that what we know of India to this point we have understood with our eyes.  In Varanasi he promises that we will know more by using our eyes and our heart.

Temples along the Ganges

Life is centered around the Ganges

Temples

Scott on the Ganges River

On our first night Dr Tripathi takes us down to the Ganges to observe the religious bathing and praying and washing and activities of the people.  

In the evening at one of the ghats

People in the Ganges

Temples are everywhere

Boats to ride down the Ganges

The men in orange have come to pray and bathe in the Ganges

Each night Priests give thanks for the day and the blessings of life.  It was a colorful display of incense, flowers, conch shell blowing, fire and water.  There are 7 priests performing the same rituals at the same time.  The music and singing is engaging.  95 percent of those around us know the words and are chanting and singing and clapping with the Priests.  Dr. Tripathi later told us that most of those attending are Hindu pilgrims from India.  Their faces are glowing with the excitement of the rituals.  The mood is ceremonial and upbeat.  There is no sorrow or regret.  It is more like a devotional carnival.  The rituals last 45 minutes and begin and end with the conch shell blowing. 

Nightly performance by 7 Priests

The crowd watching the performance

Following the ceremony we take a Rickshaw ride back to our car since cars are not allowed in the narrow alleys and streets that lead to the Ghats (stairs) down to the Ganges River. 

Rickshaw Ride

Street life is at the same time overwhelming and spectacular.  On the way we see a wedding processional with revelry, celebration, crazy dancing by the men, and costumed horses and riders.

A wedding procession

Young girl riding a horse in the wedding procession

People everywhere

Walking along, I look inside this home, there is a cow resting!

This lady is selling a stick that people use as a toothbrush

People at a ghat

Homes

Doing wash in the Ganges

People on the street

Cows can sleep on your porch

Streets of Varanasi

We make arrangements to meet Dr. Tripathi at 5:15 am the next morning so we can make our way to the Ghats and hire a boat to observe the sunrise and ceremonies from the Ganges River.   There are 2 ghats that have cremations of bodies.  It is an important ritual for the Hindu people.  There are about 150 done each day.

Near the ghat of burning bodies

Wood stockpile for burning bodies

The sunrise is spectacular. 

Barb going out on the boat for a sunrise cruise

Barb taking photos

Amazing sunrise

This holy city belongs to the world.  Tibetan monks and royalties from all countries and many religions come here to worship.  Shiva temples in Varanasi number 100,000.  

Varanasi is sacred to the Buddhists since Sidartha gave his first sermon or lessons nearby at Sarnath, just 10 kilometers away in about 500 BC.  Prince Sidartha was born the son of a King in present day Nepal.  He had no interest in normal childhood things and the King was worried.  The King consulted with his advisors and they told him to choose a wife for the Prince.  So, the Prince got married at the age of 15 and lived in luxury with his wife for 15 years.  He did not leave his palace during that time and he knew only luxury.  He was not content and asked his servant to show him the outside world.  His servant took him outside and they came upon an old man.  Sidartha was distraught and asked why this man is old and frail.  The servant replied that it is the same for all and someday we must all grow old.  Sidartha was so upset that he asked to be taken back to the palace.  The next day he asked his servant to take him out again.  They came upon a sick man.  Sidartha was distraught.  Why is this man sick?  Why is this bad thing allowed to happen?  Sidartha did not understand.  He was so unhappy that he went back to the Palace.  He returned the next day and saw the untouchable poor people and disadvantaged.  He was so distraught that he began to pull out his hair.  He fasted for many days drinking only water.  He  left his palace and wife and son, went into the mountains, and traveled as a priest.  One day it was given to him the wisdom that the Middle Way is the correct way and that we should avoid the extremes of pleasure and pain.

Stupa at Sarnath

Large group of Stupas uncovered

Carving on the large stupa where Buddha gave his first sermon

Uncovering stupas

New statue of Buddha that is the tallest in India

Barb at the large stupa

There is an archeological museum at Sarnath.  There are amazing artifacts, but no cameras are allowed.

Dr. Tripathi tells us that Buddhism is an off shoot of Hinduism.  It is a simplification of Hinduism.  Hindus have no problem accepting the teachings of the great Buddha.  Buddhists and Hindus live side by side in harmony.

There is some sub-surface conflict with the Muslims since centuries ago the Muslims conquered this area and tore down Hindu temples and replaced them with Mosques.  Some Hindus want to tear down Mosques and rebuild the sacred Hindu temples.  There is a heavy military presence at one or two of the temples that are at the center of the dispute.  But as far as we can see and sense there is no open conflict or disdain between religions.  All people seem to mix without problem.  Generally the Hindu religion is very liberal and accepting of all other religions and beliefs.

When we returned to the hotel we relaxed by having massages.  We also went to a yoga class to learn from a yogi.   We worked on stretching, breathing and meditation.  Our teacher made fun of modern techniques such as "hot yoga" taught in the USA.